Foveaux Strait

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Foveaux Strait
Māori: Te Ara-a-Kiwa
Overview map
Map of New Zealand with a mark showing the location of Foveaux Strait
Map of New Zealand with a mark showing the location of Foveaux Strait
Foveaux Strait
Foveaux Strait separates the South and Stewart Island islands of New Zealand.
Map of New Zealand with a mark showing the location of Foveaux Strait
Map of New Zealand with a mark showing the location of Foveaux Strait
Foveaux Strait
Foveaux Strait (Oceania)
Coordinates46°40′S 168°11′E / 46.67°S 168.18°E / -46.67; 168.18
Surface area2,460 square kilometres (950 sq mi)

Foveaux Strait, (Māori: Te Ara-a-Kiwa, lit. 'the Path of Kiwa') is a strait that separates Stewart Island from the South Island of New Zealand. The width of the strait ranges from about 23–53 km (14–33 mi) and it has an area of approximately 2,460 square kilometres (950 sq mi). The depth of the strait ranges between 18 m (59 ft) and 46 m (151 ft). The strait has been described as "one of the roughest and most unpredictable stretches of water in the world". Severe weather and sea conditions in the strait have contributed to multiple shipwrecks and fatalities.

Captain James Cook may have sighted the strait during his circumnavigation of the South Island in March 1770 on the HMS Endeavour. It was not properly recorded until 1804 when an American sealer Owen Folger Smith made a chart. Numerous whaling and sealing stations operated on the shores of the strait in the nineteenth century.

Major landforms on the northern coast of the strait include three large bays, Te Waewae Bay, Oreti Beach and Toetoes Bay and Bluff Harbour. There are a large number of small islands in the strait, including the Tītī / Muttonbird Islands. Foveaux Strait is known as the main fishing grounds for Bluff oyster fishery. The area of the strait is known for marine life including seals and New Zealand sea lions, and seabirds including yellow-eyed penguins. Ferry services operate regularly between Stewart Island and Bluff Harbour. The journey is about 32 km (20 mi) and typically takes an hour to complete.

Geography[edit]

The width of Foveaux Strait ranges from about 23–53 km (14–33 mi) and it has an area of approximately 2,460 km2 (950 sq mi).[1]

During the Last Glacial Period when sea levels were at least 100 m (330 ft) lower than current levels, the South Island and Stewart Island were connected by a coastal plain.[2][3][4] After sea levels began to rise 7,000 years ago, Foveaux Strait was created between the two islands.[3] The sea floor in the strait slopes towards the west, increasing in depth from around 18 m (59 ft) to 46 m (151 ft).[5][6] The sea floor is mostly flat with patches of coarse pebble and an upfault of bedrock close to sea level, near Te Waewae Bay.[6] Small amounts of Stiracolpus symmetricus shells and fine sands lie nearby, which occur of the mouths of some rivers.[7]

There are a large number of small islands in the strait, including the Solander Islands, Raratoka Island, Dog Island, the Tītī / Muttonbird Islands and Ruapuke Island.

History[edit]

Sketch of a strait dividing the southern island of New Zealand by Owen Folger Smith, 1804
Wreck of the SS Tarurua, near Waipapa Point

Pre-European colonisation, the southern parts of the country experienced rapid Māori settlement.[8] The Māori name for the Foveaux Strait is Te Ara-a-Kiwa (or uncommonly Te Ara-a-Kewa.)[9][10] There are numerous stories about the origin of those Māori names. In Māori mythology, Kiwa became exhausted from crossing the isthmus which conected Southland (Murihiku) and Stewart Island (Rakiura).[11] He requested a whale to chew through the isthmus to create a waterway, so he could access Rakiura using a waka as a mode of transport.[12]

In March 1770, Captain James Cook circumnavigated the South Island on the HMS Endeavour during his first voyage to New Zealand. He passed around the southern tip of Stewart Island during this voyage, and sighted the area of Foveaux Strait, but did not record the presence of a passage. Some suggest that he did discover the strait, but hid this discovery for reasons of military and colonial policy.[13] It is also possible that Cook genuinely made an error, as his focus was on finding the southern extent of New Zealand, and conditions were unfavourable for more closely exploring the possible strait.[14][15] The strait was first properly charted by an American sealer Owen Folger Smith who had been in Sydney Harbour with Eber Bunker from whom he probably learned of the eastern seal fishery.[16] Smith charted the strait from the whaleboat of the sealing brig Union (out of New York) in 1804 and on his 1806 chart he named it Smith's Straits.[14][17] This chart was given to Governor of New South Wales, Philip Gidley King, who did not make it public, even though he was duty bound to communicate all hydrographic discoveries to the Admiralty.[18][19] Later in 1806, another American vessel Favorite collected sealskin from the area before continuing its journey to Sydney through the strait, leading to the passage being referred to as "Favourite's Strait" or "Favorite's Strait" by some.[14][20]

Captain John Grono of the Governor Bligh named the strait after his friend Joseph Foveaux,[21][22] Lieutenant-Governor of New South Wales in 1808–1809.[23][24] The sealing brig Pegasus, commanded by Eber Bunker, ran aground in the strait in 1809, and in the report on the grounding in the Sydney Gazette, the strait was called Foveaux Strait. Numerous whaling stations and sealing (until the 1820s) operated on the shores of the strait in the nineteenth century.[25]

Sea conditions[edit]

Foveaux Strait has been described as "one of the roughest and most unpredictable stretches of water in the world".[26] Strong westerly winds regularly blow through the strait, frequently creating swells with an average height of over 3 m (9.8 ft) and occasionally over 10 m (33 ft).[27] The tidal stream in the strait can flow at speeds of 80 cm per second and up to 120 cm per second during spring tides.[28] In 1850 the survey vessel HMS Acheron was caught in a gale in Foveaux Strait that lasted for five days. The vessel took shelter at Ruapuke Island, but Captain John Lort Stokes reported: "All this time the sea resembled a huge boiling cauldron, hissing and roaring, whilst its break over the numerous reefs by which the vessel was encompassed had an appearance awfully impressive when seen in the gloom of approaching night".[29]

The French navigator Jules de Blosseville on board a French expedition vessel Coquille, was the first person to describe the strait in detail. He wrote in 1923: "Whirlpools are frequently to be met with and the position is one of great peril when the direction of the waves is contrary to that of the wind".[30] He also compared Foveaux Strait with Bass Strait, writing that currents were "much stronger".[31] The combination of wind, tides and seafloor topography in Foveaux Strait can lead to dangerous overfalls and tidal rips. In 2009, following several accident investigations, Maritime New Zealand arranged for warning notes to be added to charts of the area.[32]

Numerous shipwrecks and capsizing ships have occurred in the strait — particularly near Waipapa Point — with the most fatal accident being in 29 April 1881, the SS Tararua struck on Otara reef 13 km (8.1 mi) off Waipapa Point,[33][34][35] Of the ship's 151 passengers, only 20 survived. This prompted a lighthouse to be built at the point.[36][37]

Timeline of notable shipwrecks[edit]

Ship Year Location Description Reference(s)
The William Ackers 1876 Waipapa Point Cargo Ship [38][39]
SS Tararua 1881 Otara Reef 13 km (8.1 mi) offshore of Waipapa Point Passenger steamer [38][40]
Nellie 1888 11 km (6.8 mi) offshore of Dog Island Fishing schooner [41]
Star of Erin 1892 Waipapa Point Cargo Ship [41][42]
Waikouaiti 1939 South-east corner of Dog Island Cargo Ship [38][43]

Lighthouses[edit]

Main articles: Dog Island Lighthouse, Puysegur Point Lighthouse, and Waipapa Point Lighthouse
Dog Island Lighthouse in the early 1900s

From the early days of European settlement it was clear that a lighthouse was needed in Foveaux Strait, but there were long discussions in the 1860s where to place it. Captains with local experience were asked for their opinion, and they suggested possible sites on Raratoka Island, Ruapuke Island, Stewart Island, Solander Islands, and Dog Island.[44] The latter was chosen as Southland's first site for a lighthouse; the recommendation was made by the Invercargill Harbour Master to James Alexander Robertson Menzies, the first Superintendent of the Southland Province.[45]

A lighthouse was also constructed on Raratoka Island (also known as Centre Island). In 1853, the island was purchased from the Māori owners. The lighthouse tower was built from kauri timber and is 12 m (39 ft) tall. It started operating from 1878.[46][47] The most remote lighthouse in Southland is the Puysegur Point Lighthouse at the northwest point of the entrance to Foveaux Strait and overlooking the Tasman Sea.[48][49] Operation of the light at Puysegur Point began in 1879.[50] A further lighthouse at Waipapa Point was established in January 1884 after the sinking of SS Taraura, it is 13.4 m (44 ft) tall and was built from tōtara and kauri timber.[51]

Bluff oyster fishery[edit]

Main article: Bluff oyster

The type of oyster found in Foveaux Strait is also found around other parts of New Zealand. However, it is only in Foveaux Strait that the quantities are sufficient to sustain a commercial fishery that is now one of the oldest industries in New Zealand.[28][4] The oysters are harvested by a fleet of dredging boats — mostly operating from Bluff Harbour in the South Island — between March and August each year.[52][53] Oystering began on Stewart Island in the 1860s, and gradually moved into the strait with the discovery of larger oyster beds there in 1879.[54][4] The oyster quota was severely reduced in recent years due to the effects of the toxic protozoan parasites such as Bonamia ostreae on the oyster beds, which led to a rāhui being placed by local iwi in 2021.[55][56]

Transport[edit]

There are ferry services that travel between the Stewart and South Islands regularly. The journey is about 32 km (20 mi) and typically takes an hour to complete.[57][58] After World War II the Matai ship was no longer needed, and in 1941 it was first used as a ferry service to transport people accross the strait and laying the power cables, it was later sold to buyers in Singapore.[59] The ferry Wairua was launched in 1961, she was the largest New Zealand-made vessel, with a weight of 626 tons.[60]

In 1999 a Southern Air Cessna crashed into the strait after losing power to both engines, resulting in five deaths.[61]

Swimming[edit]

Not many people have swum across the Foveaux Strait, mostly due to the unpredictable weather conditions and great white sharks residing in the area.[62] The strait crossing distance is 25–30 km (16–19 mi) long.[63][64] The first known person to swim across the strait was John van Leeuwen, who completed it on 7 February 1963 in a time of 13 hours 40 minutes.[65][66] The first woman to swim the strait was New Zealander Meda McKenzie who completed the crossing on 20 March 1979 in a time of 14 hours.[67][68]

Wildlife[edit]

The Foveaux Strait is rich in wildilfe and marine life, New Zealand fur seals and Hooker's sea lions.[69] The strait has a wide array of seabirds such as, skuas, mollymawks, terns, muttonbirds—and numerous shags—most notably; Foveaux shags, which is endemic to the strait.[70][71][72] Giant petrel have also been recorded in the strait, the southern giant petrel in much larger numbers rather then the northen giant petrel.[73] The gannets have one bird colony on Little Solander Island, the southernmost gannet colony in New Zealand.[74] The strait has been historically regarded as rich for fishing,[75] with the Tītī / Muttonbird Islands nearby being significantly important to Ngāi Tahu, with large seasonal harvesting of muttonbirds.[76] There is a large presence of penguins, occupying the strait, with yellow-eyed penguins and blue penguins also occupying the area,[77][78][79] some of the penguins would usually mate ashore on Dog Island, occasionally they would go under the lightkeeper's house and irritate him with their noise,[71] the lightkeeper was also able to collect pāua in low-tide.[80]

Citations[edit]

  1. ^ Cullen 1967, p. 13.
  2. ^ Esler, Lloyd (2020). Early Days in Foveaux Strait. Invercargill, New Zealand. p. 9. ISBN 0473538288.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link)
  3. ^ a b "Estuary origins". National Institute of Water and Atmospheric Research. Archived from the original on 2 November 2021. Retrieved 3 November 2021.
  4. ^ a b c Cullen 1967, p. 11.
  5. ^ Cullen 1967, p. 17.
  6. ^ a b Turnbull 2010, p. 14.
  7. ^ Cullen 1967, p. 33.
  8. ^ Bain 2010, p. 13.
  9. ^ Haami, Bradford (12 June 2006). "Te whānau puha – whales – Whales and Māori society". Te Ara – the Encyclopedia of New Zealand. Archived from the original on 7 January 2022. Retrieved 3 May 2024.
  10. ^ W.A., Taylor (1952). Lore and history of the South Island Māori. Christchurch, New Zealand: Bascands. p. 162.
  11. ^ J.H., Beattie (1944). "Māori place-names of Otago: hundreds of hitherto unpublished names with numerous authentic traditions / told by the Maoris to Herries Beattie". Otago Daily Times. Dunedin, New Zealand. p. 77.
  12. ^ W.H.S, Roberts (17 January 1914). "Place Names of Otago and Southland". The Southland Times.
  13. ^ Cameron-Ash, M. (2018). Lying for the Admiralty. Sydney: Rosenberg. p. 139-145. ISBN 978-0-6480-4396-6.. But see also G.A. Mawer, review of Lying for the Admiralty: Captain Cook's Endeavour Voyage, The Globe, No. 84, 2018, pp.59-61; Nigel Erskine, “James Cook's False Trail: Hidden Discoveries, Altered Records”, Signals, No. 125, Dec 2018 – Feb 2019 pp.72–73.
  14. ^ a b c Bain 2010, p. 4.
  15. ^ Mawer, GA (2018). "Lying for the admiralty: Captain Cook's endeavour voyage [Book Review]". The Globe (84): 59–61 – via ProQuest.
  16. ^ Lovell-Smith, Melanie (24 September 2007). "Early mapping – Traders, whalers, missionaries: 1800–1840". Te Ara – the Encyclopedia of New Zealand. Archived from the original on 24 May 2022. Retrieved 3 May 2024.
  17. ^ "Place name detail: Foveaux Strait". New Zealand Gazetteer. New Zealand Geographic Board. Retrieved 5 May 2024.
  18. ^ Howard, Basil. and Stewart Island Centennial Committee. Rakiura: a History of Stewart Island, New Zealand, Basil Howard Reed for the Stewart Island Centennial Committee,Dunedin,1940, p.22; Charles A. Begg and Neil C. Begg, Port Preservation, Christchurch, Whitcombe & Tombes, 1973, p.61; Peter Entwisle, Behold the Moon: The European Occupation of the Dunedin District 1770–1848, Dunedin, Port Daniel Press, 1998.
  19. ^ Rowe, Damian (19 June 2020). "Auckland man starts campaign to change Foveaux Strait name". Stuff. Archived from the original on 6 July 2020. Retrieved 3 May 2024.
  20. ^ Hall-Johns, John (1979). The South Explored. Invercargill, New Zealand. p. 15. ISBN 0589012568.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link)
  21. ^ Hall-Johns, John (1979). The South Explored. Invercargill, New Zealand. p. 15. ISBN 0589012568.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link)
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  23. ^ John O'C. Ross, William Stewart, Sealing Captain, Trader and Speculator, Aranda (A.C.T), Roebuck Society, 1987, p.100; Anne-Marie Whitaker, “From Norfolk Island to Foveaux Strait: Joseph Foveaux’s Role in the Expansion of Whaling and Sealing in Early Nineteenth Century Australasia”, The Great Circle, vol.26, no.1, 2004, pp.51–59.
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  25. ^ Don Grady (1986) Sealers & whalers in New Zealand waters, Auckland, Reed Methuen, p.150. ISBN 0474000508
  26. ^ Levermore, Elizabeth; Arnold, Karen (20 May 2006). "Foveaux Strait passage perilous Foveaux Strait passage perilous". The Southland Times. ProQuest 330801212.
  27. ^ Gorman, Richard; Laing, Andrew K.; Bryan, Karen R. (September 2003). "Wave hindcast for the New Zealand region: Nearshore validation and coastal wave climate". New Zealand Journal of Marine and Freshwater Research. 37: 567–588. doi:10.1080/00288330.2003.9517190.
  28. ^ a b Cranfield, John (March 2007). "Dire strait - Bluff oysters: Foveaux Strait's disappearing oysters". New Zealand Geographic. 084.
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  33. ^ Bain 2010, p. 117.
  34. ^ Ingram 1972, p. 31.
  35. ^ Clark, Thomas Alvah (1963). The Sea is My Neighbour – A Lighthouse Keeper's Story. Christchurch, New Zealand. p. 109.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link)
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  38. ^ a b c Bain 2010, p. 118.
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  41. ^ a b Ingram 1972, p. 247.
  42. ^ Brett, Henry (1924). White Wings. Vol. 1. Auckland, New Zealand: The Brett Printing Company Limited. p. 317.
  43. ^ "Steamer Ashore". Gisborne Herald. 29 November 1939. p. 6. Retrieved 7 May 2024.
  44. ^ Bain 2010, p. 7.
  45. ^ Bain 2010, pp. 7f.
  46. ^ Bain 2010, pp. 18.
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References[edit]

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